How To Remove Heavy Rust From A Gun

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Jmurman Fellow member

Joined:

Dec 28, 2002

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661

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MD
Start by working Kroils on all of the exposed metal parts. Keep abroad from wire brushes, sandpaper, chisels etc.
Gentle is the key, go at it slowly and work it off with rags and Kroils.

Soak the within of the barrel with Kroils and push some patches through it after letting it soak for a while. Kroils on a patch, run it through a few times...let sit down, scrub with bore bursh, striking with dry patch. Do this until patches come up out clean.

If the outside is really pitted you might try some 0000 steel woll and kriols to knock it downward, but yous'll accept off any blue/browning that's on there.
CWL Member

Joined:

Jan half dozen, 2003

Messages:

6,526
Kroil is cracking stuff, but if you don't accept any handy, you can ever utilise a gallon of diesel fuel. Put your rusty parts in a pan and comprehend with diesel fuel. Come up dorsum after 24-48 hours and piece of work the loosened rust off with a rough rag & then 0000 steel wool.
Echo as necessary.

If you want to take it down to bare metal, you can too use naval jelly to completely strip it.
I use a very fine wire wheel on a buffer motor when cleaning upward old rusty guns.
Information technology won't hurt a thing if you don't overdo information technology.

And information technology is the best fashion I know, brusk of blasting, to get all the rust out of pitting and become it stopped.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6762/Product/.0025_STAINLESS_STEEL_BRUSHING_WHEELS

I got mine at the hardware store.

rc
I've had better luck with kerosene than annihilation else. A good, long soak, with agitation and cycling of whatever parts that move.
So I move on to any cleaner that I take at hand, ranging from Hoppe's to dish detergent.
I've recently thought nearly using an electrolysis bathroom for old rusty guns. I take a friend that does for restoring old farm/windmill engines.
Hi Guys and Girls;
I have seen amazing results using the electollysis method.
http://world wide web.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
Use bronze wool. Won't take off bluing.
Neither volition 0000 steel wool if used properly.
That's what bluing shops use to become the hot bluing salts residue off a freshly blued gun.

Anyway, if statuary wool won't remove bluing, information technology won't remove severe rust either.

rc
Brass wool and ???
The options are many... Steel wool can work if you have the fine motor skills. I don't. I utilise brass wool. In theory information technology cannot harm steel. In theory. For "lube" if the job were small I would say WD40, only since it is larger... Water will piece of work, but dry things well... (Obviously.) how much you lot want to spend? Diesel is common and fairly cheap. Any oil wouldn't hurt. Kroil is great but costs more.

You desire to exist a chip more careful with ".22's." They don't use quite as "stout" a steel as centerfires. Not needed for lead bullets and low pressures. Luck.
Stop! Head downwardly to Harbor freight or perhaps autoZone.
Buy yourself a gallon or two of EvapoRust.
And pick up one of those long trough planters at Home Depot, long enough to comprise the barreled receiver (or the longest role you desire to de-rust).
Evaporust works like a charm. Y'all can leave the whole assembly soaking over night or a week without whatsoever harm to the base metal. All the rust dissolves, along with the blueish. Amazing stuff. I use it a lot on sometime automobile tools

Information technology is not caustic. The olfactory property is non objectionable, and you don't need gloves when yous use it. You can cascade it downwards the drain when it gets too black from repeated utilise.
Y'all did not say wheter it is a semi, bolt or a pump ????? Depending on which model you have, in that location may exist some cast/machined aluminum or mag parts on it or in information technology, so do not automatically toss the entire matter into a caustic rust remover. Also do Not employ Rust Jelly (Naval Jelly) that crap volition eat you alive if you get it on y'all.
Kroil and Brass or Statuary wool and/or 000 - 00000 Steel wool in progression.

Kano Labs who makes Kroil has a swell offer right now, 2 - 13oz cans for $12.00 + Due south&H (they are normally $12 each can), they call it the Google Deal. Here is the link for it. You lot can even go Kroil in gallon or larger cans.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

DO Non SOAK THE WHOLE PIECE IN A CAUSTIC RUST REMOVER. Accept it apart advisedly and but derust the parts that are rusted.

You can nevertheless soak the entire piece minus the stock in Kroil, seriously leave information technology there a calendar week. And so slowly with some patience utilise the brass, statuary and/or steel wool to remove the rust always keeping information technology wet with the kroil. When y'all become to the pitted metallic, stick with the bronze wool, DO Not Apply SAND Paper unless you lot actually are not all that concerned with the last terminate.

if the piece has a tube magazine, make sure the mag follower is NOT plastic, if it is, have it apart and get out the plastic out of the long term kroil soak equally when it dries out, information technology will be breakable and or may fifty-fifty melt in kroil.

The piece volition NEVER look like it did. Vicious used some odd metallurgy on their .22's dorsum in the day, especially their commodities deportment and the barrels and deportment tend to exist soft with a inner butt or liner of harder steel.

I would too recommend subsequently you lot derust it.... rather than bluing information technology, apply the Steve Lauer - DuraCoat kit to refinish the entire piece. The DuraCoat EZ Finishing Kit is low toll at $fifty.00 and comes with all you need to finish the complete piece. Lauer besides has a pitted metal filler yous can employ almost like a bondo that seriously will NOT come off and is sandable, it will exist stronger than the steel around it. You can likewise Stipple the pitted areas so that it does not Expect pitted, Then refinish with the lauer DuraCoat.

www.lauerweaponry.com

You will take a operation piece that will repell farther rust as long as you remotely have care of information technology. Even though the fourth dimension, elbo power and the refinish will be twice what it is worth, it will exist a usable and functioning slice

.............or

If the piece truly is a junker piece.... and y'all just want to continue more rust off of it, get rid of the rust that is on it, utilize sand paper to smooth out everything and so degrease it vigerously with alcohol baths and SERIOUSLY (* I can hear RC laughing) use Rustoleum "Premium" spray paint to finish information technology off. a lite primer coat that is lightly buffed with 000 wool, then 2 coats of the Rustoleum with a vitrify inbetween each coat should work. It volition be a workable piece, low cost end that will last, even though it volition expect like crap

Regards,
Mike
good old tranny fluid, greatest rust inhibitor I ever seen, soak, baste dry it, and lottsa elbo grease
I accept used domicile electrolysis on a lot of tools and a few guns an information technology works well. My organisation uses lye and lye will swallow aluminum. Never used it on stainless.
+ 1 on manual fluid. 1/2 fluid and 1/ii acetone works well for me on rusted car and motorbike parts.
Naval jelly, I used it to remove rust and the blueing from an old Hungarian M44 with great results.
Exactly correct.
"Used properly" in this particular case means using it WITHOUT oil. While the steel wool won't impairment the bluing, the rust particles are an abrasive and if they build upwardly in the steel wool they will accept the bluing off. Same thing volition happen with bronze wool, or any other rubbing method where the rust particles are immune to build upwardly and are rubbed around on the surface.

Where at that place's bluing still remaining, carefully use dry 0000 steel wool to remove the fine rust. Grit it out ofttimes and don't let the loose rust particles build up. Where the finish is gone and then annihilation goes...